Harry Morgan

At lunchtime, shoppers from St John's Wood's trendy boutiques stop here for a salad or coffee and cheesecake, but in the evenings it's mostly the heimische soups and meats that emerge (slowly) from the kitchen. Service can be very laid-back, with young staff who don't seem to understand the Jewish concept of hospitality: 'keep offering more'. Harry Morgan caters to those who like the idea of Jewish food, without the restrictions, so it might serve cheese blintzes and cappuccinos after chicken soup and worsht and eggs. Not what grandma would have done - but then she wouldn't have offered a lime poached salmon caesar salad, with fish perfectly moist and pink. The regular salt beef is still a favourite (the lean version has less flavour). Order rye bread or a bowl of chips to go with it. For hearty eaters, there's chunky bean and barley soup or chicken soup, though we've found the knaidlach to be hit and miss. Falafel too can be a bit leaden, but the presentation of the food is appealing. On our visit there were no blintzes or apple strudel, and the lockshen pudding could have been sweeter, but the cheesecake was a winner.