Jee Cee Neh

Jee Cee Neh's location on the mostly residential Burlington Road means it is often filled with locals who have walked here from home - families with young children and, more frequently, suited businessmen knocking back soju or Hite beer while tackling mountains of grilled meats and bowls of rice. The room is plainly furnished with wooden tables and chairs, and screens that separate the front half of the restaurant from the back. If you need to catch your waiter's attention, electronic bells have been installed on each table.

Time and again we've been impressed by the generosity of the staff and kitchen, which provide smiling and personable service and big portions of top-quality Korean cooking. The casseroles make a good centrepiece to any meal. The large bubbling pots arrive loaded with broths that are richly complex, whether they use the milky, beef-bone base or the jarringly red, kimchi and chilli base. Our kimchi version was simple by description, but included a large hunk of spoon-tender pork belly that fell delightfully into strands, and a half-head of cabbage kimchi, which was dutifully snipped by a waiter into bite-sized portions at the table. A seafood variation included whole octopus along with juicy clams, pieces of crab and flaky morsels of fish. You could dine happily on this alone, with bowls of rice to mop up the soup, but the dumplings, barbecued meats and noodles are usually too tempting to resist.