Laicram

Laicram is the sort of relaxed, reliable and utterly unpretentious restaurant that every neighbourhood should have. To the tune of Thai pop ballads, you dine from a fairly standard menu that's accented with a few specials from the north-east of the country. Sure, the surroundings aren't glamorous. The decor is all 1970s suburban: dropped ceiling, dark carpet, stuccoed walls (all of which are showing their age), plus the additional Thai twists of portraits of the Thai royal family and carved wooden screens. But look beyond these various stylistic cobwebs to the food, and you won't be disappointed. Tom kha gai, the classic rich coconut milk broth with slices of chicken, was a perfectly balanced version: tangy from lemon, spicy from chilli, and sharp from generous slices of galangal. Fish cakes knocked the socks off standard London versions, offering real fishiness that made an ideal contrast to a honeyed cucumber relish. A north-eastern-style grilled chicken lacked crisp skin, but was nicely seasoned and cooked. Only some stir-fried prawns with chilli and onions were unremarkable. Friendly service and an authentic menu make Laicram popular and dependable.