Pierre Victoire

In the 1990s, there was a chain of these inexpensive French bistros across London; now there's just this one, plus the newer Prix Fixe down the road. Mercifully, Pierre Victoire shows no corporate symptoms. It's a well-run, convivial little place occupying ground floor and basement, with mismatched furniture, scrubbed floorboards and white walls displaying colourful paintings. At night, dripping candles emerge. Service was proficient and kind-hearted.

The carte prices are at the top end of budget dining, but the lunch and pre-theatre set menus are a bargain, offering ample choice of tasty (if not especially accomplished) cooking. Yes, the 'escargot-style' mussels starter could have had more Pernod and parsley punch, but the bivalves (de-shelled and resting, like snails, in melted butter) were tender. And a handsome portion of roast pork may have had a mushy accompaniment (orange braised savoy cabbage, sage jus, apple, sichuan pepper), but the flavours gelled. Tarte tatin was passable - if more puréed apple tart than tatin - and wines are fairly priced.