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Nyonya - © Ming Tang Evans
There may be little glamour to its two floors of Formica benches and plain tables, but Nyonya (which means 'Straits Chinese lady') is a fair rendition of the kopi tiams (coffee shops) of the Straits. The Khoo family used to run a respected Peranakan restaurant in Singapore, and their best dishes set the benchmark for this cuisine: penang-style char kway teow is the real deal, pungent and garlicky, while traditional sour and spicy flavours show up best in a curry tumis of sea bream and okra, laced with tamarind. Daughter Purdey is an expert on kueh (vividly coloured cakes), and the tasting plate is worth exploring, particularly kueh tai tai (purple glutinous rice with sweet coconut jam).
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Meals served 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri.
Main courses £2-£6. Unlicensed no alcohol allowed.
Credit cards AmEx, DC, MC, V
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