Sakonis

A landmark on Ealing Road, Sakonis attracts a cross-section of the local Indian vegetarian population. It's a huge, café-style operation; behind the pavement tables you'll find a snack-and-sweet takeaway counter, then a pan bar (where the betel-leaf digestifs are made to order), followed by the capacious white dining area (resembling a windowless canteen), the buffet counter and, finally, the kitchen.

Sit at an easy-wipe table and choose between the lengthy menu and the buffet. Either way you'll be well looked after by the plentiful staff.

Gujarati and South Indian dishes abound in both options, and such is the throughput of customers, most buffet choices remain fresh and (where appropriate) crisp. Some 30 dishes plus various chutneys and salads feature along the stainless-steel counter. Start with pooris and other crisp snacks before moving on to a masala dosa (cooked to order, ours was a little dry), an Indo-Chinese dish (crisp chilli paneer was better than the rather lank hakka noodles) or one of many curries. We particularly relished the upma (nutty with mustard seeds), the khadi, and the enthusiastic Sunday lunchers.