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Da Spago's dim red lighting, dark wood, abstract artwork and piped crooners made for a pleasant if slightly anodyne atmosphere as the restaurant filled with tourists.
The hit-and-miss menu included a thin-crusted margherita, agreeably scorched in the wood-burning oven, whose oozing mozzarella concealed a rich, luxurious tomato sauce primed with fragrant basil.
However, we expected more from the Sicilian-run kitchen than the unappetising calzone it delivered: the woolly, cake-like dough contained a sloppy, unevenly distributed lukewarm filling; a slick of cold tomato sauce proved an underwhelming garnish.
There was some evidence of the necessary attention to detail here, with DOC wines cropping up throughout the all-Italian wine list, but not enough to make Da Spago worth a special visit.
Still, in this part of town dominated by chains, there aren't many good places for pizza. Margherita £7.90; calzone £10.50
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Dinner served 5.30-noon Mon, noon-midnight Tues-Sat
Main courses £7.90-£12. Set meal £12-£16 per person (minimum 2).
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