Yming

From the start, Yming seems to have aimed at providing something a notch up from the more casual, 'eat and leave' atmospheres of most Chinatown diners. The royal-blue and aquamarine interior is smartly dressed European-style, with white linen and wine glasses. Staff are courteous and helpful; Chinese diners are few. The menu is mainly Cantonese, with a few eclectic regional dishes added. We ordered Hakka-style duck with black fungus and lily flower, but the lilies seemed absent when the dish arrived, and while the duck was earthy with red fermented beancurd, it was also dry and overcooked. Sichuan prawns were bouncy and fresh, yet lacked the fiery spice that characterises the region's cuisine. Likewise, double-braised pork in hotpot with preserved vegetables lacked the unctuousness that makes this dish delectable. Spicy aubergines were the most disappointing - described as fish-fragrant aubergines in Chinese, they resembled nothing of the sort and were very greasy. Yming has the style to appeal to diners looking for something smarter than the standard Chinese restaurant, but it needs to improve its substance for success.