Aviv

Lucky people who live in Edgware: their 'local' is still turning out great-value Israeli food, served by cheery and competent staff. Aviv offers two set menus, with a choice of 24 starters alone. The slightly more expensive list includes the likes off duck pancakes and a thick, juicy rib steak. Repeat visits and packed tables prove that the owners have got the formula just right: a combination of generous quantities of food and consistent cooking. Crisp-shell kibbe or soft, fatty lamb ribs make great winter starters. A cold mixed hors d'oeuvres includes five smooth tastes - chopped liver, egg salad, houmous, avocado and aubergine, with mushrooms and spicy tomatoes adding bite. Main courses come brimming with chips, roast potatoes or rice and a salad (or rather less appealing stir-fried vegetables). Those with a sweet tooth might go for chicken in barbecue sauce. Duck and schnitzel didn't look so promising, and though dover sole and salmon are offered, you rarely see fish brought to a table at Aviv. Go for the charcoal grills: succulent servings of beef or lamb large enough for the biggest appetites. After this, fresh fruit salad or mint tea might be more appealing than sticky toffee pudding or tarte tatin.