Back to Basics

No frills is the rule at this relaxed neighbourhood bistro. On a wet Wednesday lunchtime, the small dining room was packed and the decibel level was rising. The menu ranges widely, with plenty of piscine starters (oysters, fish soup, marinated herrings, gravadlax), a couple of salads and some pasta dishes. A blackboard lists the catch of the day. Choices might include classics (fried codling with mushy peas and tartar sauce, grilled lemon sole) or more imaginative fare, but in keeping with the restaurant's name, the kitchen seems happiest with simpler preparations.Steamed mussels with garlic and herbs showcased plump bivalves in buttery juices; the accompanying bib brought a touch of theatricality to proceedings. Dressed crab was let down by a fridge-cold, joyless crustacean.To follow, the zesty crayfish salsa with our sea trout was a highlight, but a generous portion of halibut tasted tired and was overwhelmed by baby spinach. Amid the noise, service was pleasant yet distracted. Desserts like bread and butter pudding aim at comfort eating, but a greater attraction is the sensible wine list, which has admirably fair mark-ups and a decent choice by the glass.