Al Sultan

There's no informality or Arabian Nights fantasy influencing proceedings at this venerable old-school Lebanese establishment. Al Sultan's corporate hotel-style starchiness clearly finds favour with a cosmopolitan group of diners, from large Gulf family groups to Mayfair business types and well-heeled tourists. Service, although a mite stiff, is never unfriendly.

The huge meze menu delivers freshly cooked and prepared Lebanese delicacies - no surprises, but no compromises on quality either. Wines are pricey, though the robust, fruity Lebanese house red, Wardy, stands up well to the richer dishes.

A modest cover charge brings olives, a mound of salad vegetables and puffy flatbread (baked in-house). Silky smoky moutabal, crunchy muhamara, crispy kibbeh stuffed with tasty minced lamb, and a spikily fresh green tabouleh were all top-notch. Stick to meze or maybe share a main; the köfte khashkhash (minced lamb kebabs with a rich tomato sauce) were tender and chargrilled to perfection.

Afterwards, linger over fragrant mint tea and complimentary sticky pastries to the evocative soundtrack of traditional Arabic divas.