Alloro

If the term 'fine dining', often associated with Italian food, has become devalued, Alloro rehabilitates it. The veteran operation continues to ooze class - from the intuitive, plentiful staff to the comfortable shades-of-taupe aesthetic and precise on-plate presentation.

Prices are high, but neither ingredient quality nor portion sizes are scrimped on, and dining costs haven't risen in two years. The menu is a fixed price for two or three courses (or four at dinner), with some fairly steep supplements.

Italian dishes are most prominent in the antipasti and primi; the main courses are pan-European modern classics. We started with strozzapreti with a beef ragù, whose slight dryness we forgave instantly for its depth of flavour and affinity for the house-made pasta. Mains read simply - meat or fish with salad or vegetables - but taste and texture are expertly elicited. Plaice with tempura vegetables had a light batter that complemented the delicate, creamy fish with crackle and seasoning.

The thoughtful wine list represents Italy's regions and grape types knowledgeably, and within a wide span of prices. Our only cavil was that a lone luncher was served a large bottle of mineral water; such peccadilloes would doubtless have gone unnoticed by the relaxed Mayfair business crowd.