Angelus

Owner Thierry Tomasin has created an intimate restaurant out of what was once an elegant pub: lots of dark wood with art nouveau curves, and plenty of mirrors and natural light. Staff were charming, but not above pushing the menu's pricier end - we had to ask for the cheaper all-day list, and the astounding price of a very average bloody mary (£13) was only revealed when we got the bill. There are few bargains on the French-leaning wine list either.

From the all-day menu, a steak baguette with french fries was satisfying, far more substantial and much tastier than our tiny portion of rubbery goujons de poisson for £9. However, it took a 'tasting plate' to reveal the kitchen's true capabilities: a ramekin of delectable gazpacho; chicken and ham terrine with grain-mustard dressing; bayonne ham with pea and mint mousse and broad beans; a zingy salad of crayfish and mango with avocado purée; and a sinfully good foie gras crème brûlée with toasted nut and fruit bread - a snip at £13. An assiette of desserts was also a joy, from the baby pineapple soufflé to the chocolate and cherry cake. Do eat here, but keep a sharp eye on the prices when you do so.