Aphrodite Taverna

Aphrodite's quiet, leafy backstreet location makes its scattering of outdoor tables a relaxed summer spot for watching promenading middle-aged couples and well-heeled urban trendies. Inside, cosy taverna chintz dominates. Mini bouzoukis, gourds, plaster Parthenons and Greek pottery frescoes clutter a dining area overlooked by big paintings of Greek-Cypriots in traditional costume. Tables of regulars on first-name terms with the staff and conversing in Greek add to the charming atmosphere.

The food is hearty and appetising, yet slips aren't unknown. A slab of halloumi was cut thickly enough to allow a smoky chargrilled crust, while staying meltingly soft in the middle; rich afélia arrived generously studded with coriander seeds; and huge roast potatoes were cooked the typically Greek way (pleasingly soft, oily and crust-free). However, a very oniony sausage-shaped portion of keftédes came with a disappointingly thin, watery tomato sauce, and while the lamb soúvla featured a caveman-like portion of meat hunks, it lacked the dish's signature smoky punch.

Enthusiastic service sees the chef occasionally emerge to greet diners, and a matron who makes a point of checking the cooking's up to scratch, but at quiet times, waiters can hover too attentively.