Baltic

Following the closure of Wódka in July 2011, handsome Baltic - with its amber-shard chandelier and Hanseatic-style red brickwork against a cool Scandinavian white backdrop - is now the flag bearer for owner Jan Woroniecki's modern take on classic central and eastern European cuisine.

Our meal began with a telling-off from the waiter (for taking two pieces of the lovely rye bread instead of one), but friendly, though occasionally elusive, service soon resumed. It's hard to resist the stupendous vodka list; home-infused treats such as caraway vodka sit alongside many top-quality clear varieties.

A starter of subtly smoky black pudding, with sweetly caramelised onion and apple on a crisp potato pancake, was a dream combination with spiky horseradish vodka. A main course of meltingly tender shin of beef in a robustly herbed broth with just-cooked vegetables, delicate potato dumplings and nutty kasza seemed a rash order on a hot evening - but we had no regrets.

The cooling air-con did double service as an antidote to the occasionally intrusive bass thud from the bar and loud party chatter next door. A rather miserly pudding of soft cheese and sultana pancake was forgiven thanks to two must-try dessert vodkas: warmly spiced orange, and fragrant pear.