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Located in the middle of Soho's most hectic strip, Balans is all things to all people. It functions as a first-stop breakfast café, a pleasant lunchtime brasserie, a buzzy evening restaurant and an after-pub (or even after-club) restaurant-bar. Such adaptability should be applauded, even if the food can be a bit hit and miss.
The space is large, with a big open front bar and a more secluded area out back. The menu is impressively - perhaps even worryingly - varied. We started with so-so seared scallops and black pudding and some cracking enchiladas, before moving on to a pleasant and extremely filling fish pie crammed with cod, pollack and prawns.
The catch of the day, salmon, was served with a slightly over-tart salsa verde. But Balans isn't really a place for eating, it's somewhere to be seen eating. The pavement and window tables are rarely free of poseurs until the early hours. There's also a weekday cocktail happy two hours beginning at 4pm for those who want to get the party started early.
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What is 'following'?020 7439 2183
Open 8am-5am Mon-Thur; 8am-6am Fri, Sat; 8am-1am Sun. Meals served 8am-5am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun
Admission £2.50 after midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses £8.50-£22.95
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
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