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The most stylish of London's kosher venues, Bevis Marks has the added advantage of overlooking the adjacent 18th-century synagogue with its impressive brass chandeliers. Expect elegant service and high-end cooking with a nod to traditional Ashkenazi fare.
Salt beef is 'Thai style' and chopped liver comes with added pear compote. A starter of satay salad (moist slices of chicken breast and just enough chilli) is a welcome addition to a menu that doesn't change often enough. Meat main courses can be outstanding; try the ribeye steak or herb-crusted rack of lamb, though perhaps staff should mention that the latter comes very pink. The accompaniments (red wine jus with the steaks, latkes, chips) were all well executed. Confit of duck was a little dry. For Sephardi flavours, try the Moroccan spiced salmon, or sea bream with tomato and olive salsa.
Desserts here always appeal, as the kitchen concentrates on those not requiring fresh cream. Pear and almond tart with a raspberry coulis vies with the chocolate brownie for top points, but in season why can't the chef add more summer fruits to the list of wintry puds such as crumbles and sticky toffee pudding?
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What is 'following'?Transport Aldgate tube or Liverpool Street tube/rail
020 7283 2220
Lunch served noon-2.15pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Thur
Main courses £15.25-£24.95
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 2, courtyard ), Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable ( lunch ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet ), Kosher supervised ( Shephardi ), Takeaway service; delivery service ( over £10 within 4-mile radius )
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