Bevismarks Restaurant

This smart kosher restaurant can now be found in slightly nondescript premises on Middlesex Street, having relocated from its previous home next to Bevis Marks synagogue.

The interior is plain, with a bar area where diners can snack (steak sandwich with tomato salsa, salmon and cod pie) perched on high stools, and a bigger dining section filled with white linen-clothed tables. Apart from a couple of stretches of wallpaper and a big flower arrangement, there's little decoration.

The menu mixes classic dishes alongside more modern ones. Chicken soup with matzo balls (actually just the one little dumpling) lacked depth of flavour, and the matzo ball was a little heavy, but it did have plenty of lokshen.

Next, salt beef with 'frites' and beet with horseradish relish (chrain, in other words) was an improvement, a generous portion featuring fine salt beef, good relish, and beautifully cooked chunky chips stacked Jenga-style. But another salt beef dish - a starter of shredded salt beef, Thai herbs and noodle salad - didn't convince, as the meat overpowered the other ingredients (though we noted that a neighbouring diner demolished his plateful with gusto).

We felt more kindly disposed towards a main of cured duck breast with smooth cauliflower mash and cranberry clove salsa, a sweet and zingy side of tzimmes. Steamed apricot pudding with cardamom coconut custard was a sterling dessert, despite being dairy-free. Service is friendly and attentive.

Overall, though, this won't be a destination restaurant for anyone who doesn't require kosher food. Prices are up there with the best of London's restaurants, while the quality lags behind.