Bonds

Looking for a wise investment? Consider this hotel restaurant set in a former Victorian bank. Look left as you walk through the bar to see the original main hall with its stunning glass-painted dome. The restaurant is a calm, discreet modern space with walnut-panelled walls, brown banquettes and large pendant lamps. Statement flowers and red accents (chair seats, water glasses) provide a splash of colour, while black-waistcoated staff provide graceful, professional service. A hushed, but not stuffy atmosphere prevailed at lunch - perhaps because most diners (unusually for a City venue) were women.

Look out for the regularly changing special deals: our August visit coincided with a set lunch/early evening menu of three courses including a glass for wine for £19.95 - a cracking bargain, considering you'd pay the same for one of the cheaper mains on the carte. Carefully sourced, seasonal ingredients, precision-cooking and immaculate presentation are the hallmarks of head chef Barry Tonks.

Our dishes sang: Scottish beef tartare was nicely tangy and well textured; Scottish salmon a la plancha (crisp skin, firm flesh) came with creamy tomato and saffron risotto; eton mess fitted its description of 'a classic tuck-shop treat'. Best was a main of slow-cooked, rare-breed pork belly with potato fondant, crushed peas, tomatoes and black pudding with apple purée, the plate as carefully composed as a Cubist painting. The wine list is aimed at expense-accounters, though there are bottles under £20.