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For a time, Canteen was one of the more talked-about restaurants in the back-to-basics British mould. It may have faded from the spotlight, but the kitchen's honest, simple cooking and emphasis on seasonality and provenance is still admirable.
The venue is more of a spot for a business meeting (arts-based, probably) or an easy catch-up rather than a special-occasion meal: it's called Canteen for a reason. The space is nonetheless smart and stylish, albeit in a no-frills way, the only decorative touch being a large wall map of the British Isles. Long modern benches make up most of the interior seating - be sure to book a booth table if you're after more comfort - while the exterior is popular on warm evenings with those who don't mind an echoing atmosphere.
The menu is unapologetically nostalgic, featuring classic British dishes, revived in contemporary fashion (so, without the stodge). Daily specials always feature a roast and simply cooked fish, and this pattern is replicated on a wider scale on the à la carte. Aside from the fish and roasts, highlights are the pies, all-day breakfasts and puddings - all made using top-quality ingredients. We'll certainly return for seconds of the baked cheesecake topped with caramel and roasted nuts.
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Meals served 8am-11pm Mon-Fri; 9am-11pm Sat; 9am-10pm Sun
Main courses £8-£14.50
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 10, plaza ), Babies and children welcome ( high chairs ), Bookings not accepted ( lunch Sat, Sun ), Disabled ( toilet ), Takeaway service
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