Chosan

Cosy Chosan, with its tatty cushions, Japanese knick-knacks and kind-faced husband-and-wife team, teeters on the verge of cliché, albeit a lovely one. A small reception housing the till and an array of Japanese papers and pamphlets leads to a reasonably sized dining room, with a sushi bar in one corner and tables along the walls.

The menu is impressive in its breadth. There is, of course, sushi and sashimi, but also lesser-known kushiage (deep-fried morsels of food on skewers) and a smattering of delicious small dishes that would not be out of place in an izakaya, such as grilled chicken wings with salt, crab croquettes, and grilled squid with ginger.

Comforting rice dishes are a popular option at lunch, and our katsu-jyu (deep-fried breaded pork on rice) was a satisfying number. The agedashidofu was expertly fried too, with a thin, crisp exterior giving way to silky bean curd.

The sushi wasn't quite as delicate, but the fish was fresh and portions generous; our natto maki was slightly dry, though, without the fermented soybean's distinctive (and desired) sliminess. We'd advise booking at the weekend, as this couple's hospitality and cooking is a hit with Putney locals.