Daphne's

The midday shoppers at Brompton's ultra-chic boutiques must have worked up quite an appetite, because by the time we sat down for Daphne's pre-theatre slot, the set menu was looking rather bare. There was no fish, beetroot salad was gone, and the pork was now chicken. Still, there were enough dishes remaining to put together a reasonably interesting three courses.

Salad of roast aubergine and mozzarella was prettily presented, the cheese nicely milky. The chicken was a plump, juicy breast atop flavourful caponata, while vegetarian tagliatelle came with generous blobs of ricotta. Blueberry ice-cream with nutty biscuits made a refreshing end to a good-value meal. The carte, of course, offers a much wider range, but still plays it pretty classic.

Staff hovered just a little too close during our meal, though they backed off once the two rooms filled up. The main area, with exposed brick walls, provides people-watching opportunities through the glass front, while at the back there's a large, light conservatory. The wine list is predominantly Italian and in the £20 to £30 per bottle bracket, with a smattering of Bordeauxs and champagnes for the à la carte crowd.