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It's worth coming here for the garden alone, a formal criss-cross of box, privet and gravel around a central water sculpture, edged by apple trees. The pub's occasional cultural event programme means you may find live theatre taking place, or a string quartet playing inside. The menu is less adventurous, however, offering pretty standard contemporary pub grub. Our starters of scotch duck egg and mackerel pâté - creamy, almost mousse-like, nudged along by sour capers - were both well executed, but there was more fun to be had with a main course of grilled sardines on toast. The dish showed a kitchen unafraid to go simple and get it right: moist fish, crispy toast and cheekily piquant salsa verde made for perfect alfresco eating. Lamb kofta wasn't quite as impressive - good meat but the flatbread was a little unhappy - and the unexceptional house white was pricey at £13.90 a bottle. However, the pub has a reasonable range of beers and lagers (Adnams, San Miguel), though it's poor on perry and cider. Desserts - a nicely paired lemon posset with shortbread biscuit, and a treacle tart with crème fraîche - were more than fine, so we left happy.
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Open noon-11.30pm Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Lunch served noon-3.30pm, dinner served 6.30-10pm Mon-Fri. Meals served noon-10pm Sat; noon-4pm, 5-9pm Sun.
Main courses £9-£14.95.
Credit cards MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 30, garden ), Babies and children welcome ( until 8pm high chairs; nappy-changing facilities )
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