Donzoko

Many people never move beyond Donzoko's set lunches, which are inexpensive (often under £10) and of consistently high quality. The venue's consequent lunchtime popularity is no mean feat in a part of town where Japanese restaurants are common. Set-lunchers would do well to explore further, however, because there are other ways to assemble a good meal here - at little extra cost.

Daily specials throw up all sorts of intriguing possibilities, as in a lunch where two specials (deep-fried sprats in spicy vinegar sauce, and boiled tuna with a sweet ginger sauce) provided the centrepiece. The tuna was cooked until it resembled braised beef in both texture and flavour. The cold sprats and their batter were softened to squidginess by an acidic marinade - disconcerting and delicious.

Surrounding these were small dishes: outstanding sashimi of raw octopus and heavenly marinated mackerel, and a notable prawn tempura maki. The result: a light, exquisite lunch for £12 a head.

Standard dishes such as tempura and teriyakis are reliable, and the speciality skewered dishes are also well-executed. An enormous list of sakés provides all the alcoholic stimulation you need.

Service (sometimes delivered with shaky English) tries hard and can be very sweet.