Electric Brasserie

The Electric Brasserie's populist menu keeps this Portobello Road institution constantly buzzing - we were lucky to get a seat among the tightly packed tables on our Wednesday night walk-in.

Much entertainment is to be had watching the highly charged open kitchen turn out a succession of steaks, seafood and salads at an eye-watering pace. A scotch egg with caper mayonnaise was outstanding, the highlight of our small plate selection, though almost bettered by mashed broad beans served with parmesan-crusted flatbreads.

Calamares and garlicky aïoli was our nod to the Electric's emphasis on fish (from oyster platters to lobster and whole baked sea bream). It was the thrill of the grill that appealed for our main courses, however. The house cheeseburger's brioche bun matched the glossy leather banquettes of the art deco-inspired dining room; and the succulent, smoky 'roast' chicken came perfectly paired with a rich pesto.

A well-stocked bar-café out front acts as an all-day meeting place for plugged-in locals (many visiting the cinema next door), while an ever-changing cocktail list ensures the operation remains current and never loses its spark.