Fifth Floor

It may be located by the 'Foodmarket', but the Fifth Floor is a luxury restaurant with views across Knightsbridge, and prices to suit prosperous Harvey Nichols customers. Its latest incarnation has more traditional leanings than in the past (the walls a satin taupe, displaying large contemporary mirrors), but the adjacent bar area retains its pearly white brilliance.

Service was a touch fawning - 'Two courses? Oh, but we want the pleasure of mademoiselle's company a little longer'. However, if there's a time and a place for dispensing such attention, this is probably it: the fuss reflecting the customer experience elsewhere in the store.

The carte is divided into 'From my favourites', and 'From…' the sea, the farm, and the field. This gives a decent balance, although the favourites section (poached eggs, Lyme Bay scallops, crispy Gressingham duck and more) seemed to equate neither to starters nor light meals.

Mains were dainty; even roast loin and braised shoulder of lamb left ample room for further edible manoeuvres, while roasted zander lent intrigue, served with a gentle red lentil vinaigrette and a spirited parsley coulis. The market menu presents 'high street' value for those not on designer budgets.