Hisar

Lordship Lane is East Dulwich's dining and drinking destination and Hisar is an established favourite. There's a takeaway to one side as well as a substantial, brown-toned restaurant. Here, a large ocakbası holds pride of place, wafting fragrant smoke and sending forth an endless stream of kebabs (billed as 'Bar-B-Que Pit Specials'), as well as assorted grilled fish dishes. Dull pitta bread and ho-hum olives didn't whet our appetites, but a starter of patlıcan salata, the grilled aubergine accompanied by red capsicum and dill, held promise. Alti ezmeli (chunks of grilled lamb served in a tomato sauce with red and green peppers and herb butter) was rich, well-executed and satisfying. The 'Hisar special' of tender-stewed lamb, wrapped in a parcel of soft aubergine, would bring a smile to the face of any carnivore. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes too, such as börek, stuffed vine leaves and meat-free stews, but most people come here (and Hisar is highly popular) for the family-friendly atmosphere, the hearty portions, reasonable prices and grilled meats galore.