Il Convivio

Tucked away in a quiet Belgravia street, this comfortably upmarket Italian restaurant may not set new culinary standards, but it still wins plaudits for elegantly presented classic dishes with a modern twist. The attention to detail is outstanding (including the offer of amuses bouches and freebies between courses) and worthy of haute cuisine restaurants. Most of the wine list may be beyond the reach of diners lacking a bulbous expense account (unless they're celebrating a special occasion), but ordering by the glass is taken seriously here, with staff bringing the bottle to the table to check and taste. Even a simple starter of buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes arrives beautifully presented, and the pasta dishes are elegant and imaginative, such as black spaghetti with lobster. Take note, though, that main courses come with little accompaniment, and the addition of side dishes will push the bill even higher. While regulars may not flinch, the final bill can easily reach levels that can only be justified at the very best establishments.