L'Etranger

Within a large, modishly grey building, with its own wine shop next door, L'Etranger's monochrome dining room features black leather seating and black tables. Considerate staff made us feel relaxed from the start.

The Euro-Asian menu is divertingly eclectic; few lists feature dover sole with asparagus and tomato concasse next to grade-nine wagyu beef nigiri with honey-flavoured soy. Raw meat and fish are kitchen favourites. Four different tartare (a twist on steak tartare) are offered, including one of Charolais beef plated with truffled polenta chips. A five-tomato salad was like summer unfolding, an absolute belter of colours and textures: creamy burrata infused with truffle and topped with balsamic caviar played beautifully next to a basil and tomato sorbet, and assorted cuts and shades of tomatoes.

We were equally impressed with a 'surf and turf' main course of pan-fried monkfish in a herb crust, paired with wagyu beef binding together black rice and fennel carpaccio, completed by a hint of shichimi pepper. Desserts are more familiar, and we finished on a high note with a giant pistachio and kalamansi (South-east Asian citrus fruit) macaroon sandwich filled with wild strawberries.

To match the extraordinary food, there's an equally diverse blockbuster wine list, including saké. You'll need a fat wallet to dine here, but the quality justifies the prices.