La Trompette

An established destination, with links to the Ledbury, Chez Bruce and the Glasshouse, La Trompette has earned an enthusiastic following of business types, mature diners and romancing couples. The dining room is furnished in shades of brown and beige, punctuated by crisp white napery: a fitting setting for high-quality cooking that's mostly classic French, but makes occasional forays to the Mediterranean.

Creamy fennel soup, notable for its delicate aniseed-like flavour, was an outstanding example of simple elegance. Less impressive, duck confit tortellini, served with sweet creamed cabbage and mustard and bacon foam, had ambition yet lacked punch. Mains, however, were splendid. A juicy, golden-hued chicken breast, surrounded by plump, smoky-tasting morels, broad beans, peas and macaroni, was full of garden-fresh flavour. Equally enjoyable, crisp-skinned bream fillet, accompanied by crushed potatoes, paired well with tangy clam vinaigrette flecked with chives and diced tomatoes. Puddings are exceptional; strawberry sorbet and meringue fingers made a light, fresh-flavoured finale to a satisfying meal.

The wine list is extensive, and service professional and unobtrusive, if at times slow between courses. In summer, the glass frontage opens on to a neatly appointed outdoor dining area.