Latium

Sited in a faceless Fitzrovia street opposite the glum façade of the Sanderson, this smart and inviting restaurant, with dark leather banquettes, mosaic walls and abstract art is a pleasant surprise. A well-heeled mixed clientele largely comprised those who worked nearby and the place was all but empty by the time we left at 10.30pm. An interesting menu betrayed a chef trying to move Italian food forward. A lavish platter of nibbles kept us happy while we scanned the menu. First courses of fiore de zucchini ripieno with Devon crab and broad bean sauce and pappardelle with wild boar ragout were both excellent. Mains of slow-cooked pork belly with savoy cabbage and balsamic vinegar, and fillets of red mullet wrapped with basil and lardo de colonnato, with sun-dried tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella sauce were superb, and the latter exquisitely presented. Rum baba with marsala sabayon and pistachio ice-cream, and white chocolate bavaroise with raspberry coulis and pistachio biscuit rounded off a memorable meal, but there was yet more delight in the chocolate petits fours that came with coffee.