Launceston Place

We're not the only ones to proclaim chef Tristan Welch's cleverness, but in December 2011 he moved on - to a consultancy role for the same restaurant. But Launceston Place still offers characterful cooking of great style and originality, under new chef Timothy Allen.

British fare is rarely served with such elegance; the ribbon tying together an appetiser of warm potato crisps was the only twee note in our modishly presented tasting menu. Although it's a fine-dining restaurant at heart, you'll find ingredients such as oats (used as a bed for smoked partridge, whisky and heather) and duck hearts (served on toast with wild garlic and morels).

There's invariably an adroit combination or two; witness our venison tartare with quails' eggs, English mustard and walnut dressing. Other elements are disarmingly simple, such as pickled herring served instead of olives; Sunday roast of Longhorn beef with horseradish; and the excellent bread.

Wine buffs will adore exploring the acclaimed wine list - the chatty sommelier can help those with less knowledge, but rest assured it's worth spending a few pounds extra. Sumptuous decor includes soft banquettes and shimmery, 1930s-inspired fabrics to sit on, and walls decked with contemporary landscape paintings, witty wallpaper and bitter chocolate paint.