Le Caprice

As befits a Mayfair glamour-puss with a 30-year-long career, Le Caprice has just splashed out on a facelift. Stark black and white art deco chic is still the order of the day, but gleaming metal and glass shelving and an illuminated, marble-effect cream backdrop now join the long black marble bar and the white panelled walls adorned with David Bailey's monochrome photos of British celebs from the Swinging Sixties.

The cocktail menu has been adapted to include a short 'heritage list' of classics (bellinis, bloody marys, manhattans), but the food remains focused on unfussy Modern European fare. Partridge salad came sprinkled with tangy elderberries and little curled wafers topped with blobs of pâté. There was no need for the rich, salty gravy that accompanied a slow-roast duck leg, whose crisp skin was underlaid by such a satisfyingly thick layer of fat that the plate it came on was already swimming in grease.

But as the occasional customer posing for photos outside the door proves, this is more a destination restaurant than a place food is the main draw.