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Through the automatic doors into the foyer, past the concierge, and down the staircase - each step towards your table at Le Cercle draws you nearer to the gentle burble emanating from the elegant, high-ceilinged dining space. The design is reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright, with clean, modern lines juxtaposed with natural textures of stone and wood. Diners are bathed in softly diffused light and soothing film music.
This Club Gascon offshoot whispers moneyed taste, from the wine collection along one wall to the discreetly sheathed booths behind billowy muslin drapes. The menu has recently become more flexible, and features a carefully calibrated mixture of culinary classicism and strident modernity. Miniature ravioli of comté cheese and basil set the tone for our meal, with dainty pasta pillows floating in buttery foam.
Foam and decorative plating are key themes - the second course of firm but flaky haddock also arrived in its own bubbly herb bath, while a dish of intensely flavoured pork belly rested on a raft of puy lentils. The small but satisfying cheeseboard completed a refreshing French fine-dining experience, though we've found that the formal service can be patchy.
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What is 'following'?020 7901 9999
Bar Open/snacks served noon-midnight Tue-Sat. Restaurant Lunch served noon-2pm Tue-Sat. Dinner served 5.30-10.45pm Tue-Sat
Both Main courses £9-£29. Set lunch £15 3 courses, £19.50 4 courses. Set dinner (5-7pm, 10-11pm) £17.50 3 courses, £21 4 courses. Tapas £6-£16
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable ( dinner and Sat, Sun ), Separate room for parties ( seats 12 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( lift; toilet ), Dress ( smart casual ), Vegan dishes
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