Les Trois Garçons

Housed in an attractive Victorian pub, Les Trois Garçons has a look that's more blinged-up curiosity shop than East End boozer. Chandeliers and vintage handbags hang from the ceiling. Heavy curtains swathe the windows, and bejewelled, stuffed animals are everywhere you turn.

For over a decade, well-heeled diners have been flocking from all over the place to try the modern French food. Pissaladière d'descargots de Dorset came with plump and juicy snails tinged with chilli and garlic, but they were slightly overpowered by sweet caramelised onions and the puff pastry case. A trio of pork included deliciously smoky pea and pork croquettes, tender braised shoulder and strips of roasted belly - all balanced by savoury sea aster.

Disappointingly, the fish of the day (crisp-skinned john dory with pearl barley risotto) came to the table lukewarm and had to be sent back. This was dealt with efficiently, if not apologetically. Though the standard of cooking varied, we couldn't fault the smooth Bourgeuil we chose from the French-skewed wine list; a pudding of citrusy lavender sorbet was also notable.

If you're after a posh meal in a quirky setting, Les Trois Garçons fits the bill - but the experience doesn't come cheap.