Manicomio

From spring to autumn, well-heeled locals in the know seem to book Manicomio's solid alfresco tables overlooking the Duke of York Square shopping precinct, leaving the main dining room to late-comers. The extensive terrace, not to mention the numerous patio heaters, helps create the impression of being on holiday in Italy, just a stone's throw from the manic King's Road traffic. The menu comprises several 'safe' modern Italian dishes that make liberal use of Mediterranean ingredients such as capers, olives and fresh herbs. The own-made pastas are a popular option, their appeal often surpassing that of the more aspirational, yet less remarkable, main courses. We were won over by silky pappardelle with creamy yet gutsy artichoke sauce, but less so by a much blander dish of monkfish with courgettes, rosemary and chilli. If it's available, chocoholics shouldn't miss the hot chocolate fondant served with pistachio ice-cream. Service can be confused at times, and the staff quite aloof. The deli-cum-café next door offers simpler fare as well as a selection of Italian ingredients for sale. A new branch has opened in the City.