Mar i Terra

The former pub that now houses Mar i Terra on a narrow street near a railway viaduct has a slightly Dickensian look, contrasting with the area's new glass-and-steel towers. Inside, there's traditional polished wood tapas bar decor in both the main bar and the first-floor dining room. A neat walled garden at the back adds to the feel of a snug, relaxing hideaway.

The place is deservedly popular, but thanks to the three distinct spaces you'll rarely have difficulty getting a table, despite the 'no evening bookings for fewer than ten' rule. The wine range includes less common Spanish labels at accessible prices, and the tapas menu also features unusual offerings such as habas tiernas de lodosa (small broad beans sautéed with ham and mint) and a richly tasty rabbit casserole with wine, mushrooms and potatoes.

All the classics are here too: Catalan spinach with raisins and pine nuts, and cumin-flavoured albóndigas were also enjoyable; only piquillo peppers stuffed with rather dull crab disappointed. Young, friendly Spanish staff keep things going nicely. The restaurant is generally good value too, although charging £1.50 per head for bread and oil and £2.70 for a bowl of olives seems cheeky.