Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley

Despite Marcus Wareing's recent opening of British restaurant Gilbert Scott, no one has taken an eye off the ball at this flagship destination; cooking remains superbly executed. The Berkeley is a powerbroker's stomping ground, and the claret colour scheme and plush fittings reflect the somewhat formal tone. Even so, this is a popular haunt. On our weekday visit, the dining area was filled with the appreciative buzz of conversation from occupied tables.

Dishes are often complex in nature, but always well crafted. A soft scoop of creamy burrata cheese complemented the intense fruitiness of sliced heritage tomatoes and minted melon balls: a marvellous set of contrasts. The summery theme continued with a splendidly tender chicken breast, crowned with glistening skin, surrounded by a moat of creamy elderflower sauce.

Desserts delivered the goods too. Wareing's signature custard tart was delectable, the filling silky-smooth and wobbly, its pastry, crisp and buttery. Fitting finales include old-fashioned trolleys offering cheese selections and mounds of truffles; it's all rather grand.

Prices are pitched at the sharp end, but it's worth sampling the set lunch menu and accompanying wines for a more affordable meal. Service is smoothly assured and utterly professional.