Mesopotamia

Strikingly different from its takeaway neighbours, this beacon of homespun Iraqi cooking reflects well on the talented husband-and-wife team who run it. Bedouin-style cloth draped over the ceiling, animal friezes along stone walls and themed artefacts lend a theatrical flourish.

Stars of our marvellous meze platter included silky houmous seasoned with cumin, fattoush (mixed salad tossed in a dressing of pomegranate molasses), and baba ganoush (roasted aubergine blended with tahini, garlic and yoghurt). The acclaimed fesenjoon is a highlight among the main courses: a dressed-up chicken casserole cooked in pomegranate molasses and walnuts.

We enjoyed the succulence of herby minced lamb rolled into sausages, each wrapped in an aubergine slice and baked in tomato and toasted cumin sauce. Even simple grills are given the light touch with lemony tahini marinades, served with garlicky yoghurt and red chilli and tahini sauce.

The wine list too is notable; look for the surprisingly affordable quality Lebanese bottles. Food portions are generous, but if there's space, conclude with cardamom-laced coffee and sweet, indulgent baklava.