Notting Hill Brasserie

Brasserie is an odd choice of name for this spot: the menu suggests something fancier, and the prices certainly do. It's an altogether more serious affair, drawing in Notting Hill's smarter diners for service complete with jazz tinkling through the speakers and from a grand piano at the bar.

Original features of the Edwardian townhouses (the restaurant takes up the ground floor of three houses, making the most of the interlocking rooms) are decked with modern fittings, wooden floors and African artefacts on the walls, all in shades of taupe. Heavy white tablecloths and armchairs complete the sumptuous set-up.

On a recent visit, food was a little disappointing. Foie gras parfait with rhubarb compote was light and smooth, but tasted cheesy, as if it contained parmesan - surely not? A main of duck came with nicely cooked spring vegetables and sour cherries, but the gravy was insipid. A heavy, coffee-scented crème brûlée didn't lift our spirits either. Perhaps we visited on an off-day, but for these prices we'd hope for something more exciting. Still, service was faultless, the wine list notable and the set lunches are excellent value.