Olivo

You could easily miss Olivo's understated exterior if it weren't for the telltale olive trees. Inside, the distinctive Mediterranean palette of blue and yellow is in need of a lick of paint, and some might think the white paper tablecloths don't befit the prices charged.

The menu is a mix of Sardinian specialities and Italian standards. Stuffed calamari had a good chargrilled flavour, but the portion was meagre. Malloreddus (small, curled pasta shells from Sardinia) came in a bland sauce, though the own-made sausage pieces - when we found them - were punchy. We enjoyed a seafood brochette with Sardinian couscous: fresh and summery on the plate and on the palate. To finish, our dessert of panna cotta looked a flop, but was redeemed by a sharp raspberry coulis.

The impressive Italian wine list contains several bottles from Sardinia. Staff were friendly and helpful; a mix-up with the wine was cheerfully rectified, and some pyjama-clad kids playing with iPads were indulged in the Italian way. The owners run a mini-chain of Italian establishments in Belgravia, including Olivomare fish restaurant and a deli. However, crowds were thin at Olivo; perhaps rival Sardo has tempted lovers of Sardinian cuisine north of Oxford Street.