One-O-One

Breton chef Pascal Proyart is serious about seafood. It's a shame that the decor at the hotel restaurant in which he presides lacks character, warmth and intimacy. On our Sunday lunch visit, the spacious dining area was sparsely occupied by a few mature diners and a solitary young family: a pity, as the cooking, which draws upon a roll-call of global influences, is exemplary.

Although à la carte options are seriously expensive, the set lunches are exceptionally good value. Farmed tilapia (from Yorkshire), filleted and steamed to juicy sweetness - surrounded by a gingery coconut broth with crunchy, flash-fried water chestnuts and sesame-crusted mussels - made a marvellously light start to a series of taster plates. We also loved the more robustly flavoured mackerel bruschetta, steeped in red pepper juiciness and scented with saffron.

The carte contains a few meat dishes, but One-O-One is unashamedly a fish and seafood destination. Desserts are as indulgent as they are tasty; warm brownies, accompanied by coffee mousse and salted caramel ice-cream, and sabayon-coated berries with sorbet, are two excellent choices that rounded off a fabulous meal.