Pasha

On first impression, Pasha almost seems to resemble a late-night club, with its feature lights, low seating, UV toilets and well-stocked bar. It's a smart place, with a few Ottoman design flourishes providing the only clues to its direction. Rather than straight-up Turkish, think of the menu as a stylish but safe trip around the Med, stopping mainly in Turkey but also North Africa, Albania and the Middle East.

Pasha never actually wows with any of the countries it represents, but everything is well executed, thoughtfully plated and tasty. Along with a warm wholemeal pitta, our waistcoated waiter brought a starter of fine renditions of mücver: deep-fried, bhajia-style fritters of courgette and cheese. A meze offer includes these, as well as skewers and the usual houmous and tabouleh, but it's only available for groups of two or more.

Steer clear of the grilled mains (you can get them elsewhere) and try some of the more interesting dishes: lamb kléftico, say (slow-cooked shoulder with potatoes and oregano). Pasha's trad Sunday roasts seem to signify a slight lack of confidence, but there's no need: the Turkish offerings are still among the best on Upper Street.