Paternoster Chop House

A stone's throw from St Paul's Cathedral, Paternoster Chop House is spacious and modern. On a summer evening visit, tipsy City workers were crammed beneath the outside awning; inside saw a similar crowd, along with the odd tourist. Despite the half empty dining room, we were squeezed on to a small table between a pillar and another couple, making the meal less relaxing than it might have been.

The simple menu didn't disappoint, though, with well-sourced, skilfully cooked meat, sustainable fish and a few classic British puds. The 'beast of the day', roast Galloway beef, was perfectly tender and flavour-filled, if a little overpowered by a nose-tinglingly hot beetroot and horseradish purée. Huntsham Court Farm Middle White pork hit the spot with creamy fat, crunchy crackling and a well-balanced apple sauce. Sticky toffee pudding also made the grade.

The globetrotting wine list holds a few English bottles. Our waiter was prompt and polite, but just a little indifferent. For a meat-heavy meal with clients, or after-work drinks and nibbles from the bar menu, Paternoster fits the bill, but it's possibly not the place for a special occasion.