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This big old place certainly plays the Camden gastropub part. The bar has a classic battered-wood look, and boho touches like bright colours and old movie posters offset the fine original glass; the great dining room, at the top of an impressively creaky staircase, is more Victorian-decadent in style, with sumptuous dark fabrics. Live jazz and other music helps keep the crowds coming at weekends, and the range of drinks is imaginative, including a choice of quality ciders. Food prices are lower than at many gastropubs nowadays - especially if you take advantage of the set menus - yet the cooking is less notable than the setting. The menu is an impressive read, but doesn't really deliver, and the dishes we tried were all pleasant but unmemorable. To start, chicken liver pâté was mildly liverish, while a goat's cheese and spinach tart had too much egg and spinach and too little cheese. Mains of smoked duck breast with marinated pear salad in red wine, and chicken parmigiano with chips were again satisfying but not much more. Service was friendly but slow, even on a quiet lunchtime.
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What is 'following'?020 7485 0270
Open noon-11pm Mon-Thur; noon-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-10.30 Sun. Lunch served noon-3pm, dinner served 6-10pm Mon-Fri. Meals served noon-10pm Sat, 12.30-6pm Sun.
Main courses £8.95-£15.95. Set meal (noon-3pm, 6-10pm Mon-Wed; 6-10pm Thur-Sat) £9 2 courses, £10.50 3 courses.
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 12, garden ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs; toys ), Separate room for parties ( seats 60 ), Disabled ( toilet ), Entertainment ( jazz 8pm Sat; free )
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