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An Edgware Road staple, Ranoush is the rough and ready pit stop in the Maroush family of Lebanese restaurants. The narrow space has room for a few tables down one side and a couple on the rowdy pavement, but it’s mostly about takeaway – expect boozy queues stretching out of the door at peak evening times. The gyros turn steadily behind the large counter stacked with meze, baklava and fruit for fresh juices. The succulent, aromatic meat tastes exactly how you want it to when carved on to plates or into sandwiches, slathered with creamy houmous and layered with pickles. Service is brisk, even brusque, but it’s all part of the experience – just load up and go on your way happily fortified.