Ransome's Dock

A neighbourhood restaurant with an immediate advantage: namely, it belongs to a very desirable neighbourhood. Ransome's has a narrow terrace alongside the dock, and - if you crane your neck - views across the Thames to Chelsea. Despite the riverside allure, it's an unassuming, rather old-fashioned venue, the conservatory giving way to purple-haze walls and nondescript tables and chairs, some of the latter upholstered in a kind of terracotta corduroy.

The pared-back Modern European menu is simple, perhaps to a fault. Best call is the fish, which is fresh daily and tastes heavenly. Eel fillet on a buckwheat pancake with horseradish made a good, if costly, starter. The following cod in a gentle pesto sauce was so full-flavoured, it seemed like a different species from the frozen specimens usually encountered. Chicken breast was decent too, but both mains were served with similar vegetables (a sign, at least, of seasonality).

Service was fine, though junior staff were a little timid. On the plus side, the wine list is a revelation, with all the hallmarks of an enthusiastic expert (borne out by several accolades and a wine club - details online).