Reubens

Reubens is the only kosher eaterie in the West End, so has a captive audience of tourists and locals wanting haimishe (home-style) food. The ground-floor cafeteria-deli is stark, with cold blue walls and granite tables. This is where to find a quick salt beef sandwich or unexceptional chicken soup. Queue up at the counter, choose from a wide range of Ashkenazi dishes listed on a board, pay, and the plates will be brought to your table. Grilled lamb chops and steak are both good bets, but if you want waiter service and tablecloths, head for the pricier basement restaurant.

Here you can order the likes of chicken with mango, beef in ambitious-sounding sauces, or old-fashioned favourites such as chicken kiev. Modern European it ain't, but Reubens draws crowds for its reliable grilled sole or tuna, and the filling, flavourful meats that Orthodox diners enjoy.

Sadly, the no-fat salt beef didn't seem as good as it used to be, while chips, latkes and knaidlach were merely competently prepared. After a large portion of grilled chicken wings or stuffed cabbage, you might not manage dessert, but trenchermen could tackle the lockshen pudding or chocolate pud. Ices are made with parev cream.