Rhodes Twenty Four

The view from the 24th floor is awe-inspiring day or night, though we have a slight preference for the twinkling evening cityscape. Also, at dinner the usual business clientele is leavened by dating couples and family groups. Bargain hunters should check for the regular lunch deals; the special summer set lunch on our visit was a steal for this quality. Decor is pale and low-key, focusing attention on the floor-to-ceiling windows. Well-drilled staff ensure everything runs smoothly, while the kitchen produces hit after hit.

The real showstopper was a plate of pork: pork belly on a chunky apple ring, roast loin on carrots, and braised cheek on mash - a sublime dish. Beside this, pan-fried haddock with baby leeks and smoked bacon and cockle chowder was almost unassuming.

Starters were excellent too. An earthy, deep green watercress soup came with little ticklemore goat's cheese fritters, while a good portion of wood pigeon was served with beetroot tartlet and sour cream dressing. High standards were maintained by the signature dessert plate, which held Gary Rhodes' version of a jaffa cake, an almost liquid bread and butter pudding, and an addictive warm date pudding with toffee sauce.

Of the extras, a white tomato soup amuse-bouche scored top marks, and the bread rolls were also good. Petits fours were generous but misguided: mini muffins are just too heavy after a three-course meal. Have an aperitif (there's a short cocktail list) first, or a coffee in the bar later, to make the most of those amazing views.