Rhodes W1

Perhaps the most beautiful chandeliers in any London restaurant grace Rhodes W1. They're like inverted fountains of light, and they make you constantly look up at the ceiling while you're eating. There's plenty to look at on the plates as well, some of it exceptional. This is Gary Rhodes' Modern European fine-dining restaurant, aiming at the same gastro-artistry as his British enterprise, Rhodes 24. Sometimes it succeeds brilliantly, with unusual presentations of classic ideas, as in a fine rabbit terrine served with pineapple pickle, and a beautiful fillet of halibut poised atop wonderful spiced lentils. Other things, including honey panna cotta with fresh mango, didn't quite reach those heights (though entirely satisfactory, this was lacking a little of the excitement found in our best dishes). Service was flawless: friendly and precise at the same time. The wine list isn't huge, but it is very good, and offers sufficient quality around £30 to suit even relatively modest budgets. Rhodes W1 had a change of chef after its much-feted launch in 2008, and it's possible he hadn't fully settled down when we ate here. The place holds much promise, even if many diners will have to confine their visit to that well-priced lunch.